CONTEXT

The ascorbic acid (Vit C) is an anti-oxydant compound which helps to the production of collagene and is an essential compound for the formation of the conjonctive tissue of the skin. It is recognized that this compound should theoretically improve the esthetic aspect of the skin. However, the penetration of Vit C into the skin is hampered by its hydrophilic character and this molecule is subject to fast degradation due to oxidation. The team has developed a new formulation of Vit C, able to overcome the above disadvantages, by chemical linkage with the squalene, a natural and biocompatible lipid.

TECHNICAL DESCRIPTION

We have discovered that the linkage of squalene, a natural and biocompatible lipid, to Vit C permitted the spontaneous formation of nanoassemblies in a water medium. Interestingly, the Vit C-squalene bioconjugate may also be mixed with pure squalene to obtain a nice and homogeneous gel that can be applied onto the skin. Comparatively to pure Vit C, a better anti-aging activity has been obtained on human skin explants.

DEVELOPMENT STAGE

• Synthesis and characterization of squalene-based vitamine C gels and nanoparticles
• In vitro efficacy assays on human skin
• In vitro safety on human fibroblasts

BENEFITS

The squalenoylated vitamine C is able: (i) to protect the vitamine from oxydation, (ii) to enhance neutral GAGs expression, (iii) to enhance collagene III production and (iii) to induce both dermal and epidermal stimulation without cytotoxicity.

INDUSTRIAL APPLICATIONS

This discovery may be commercialized by the cosmetic industry as anti-aging cream.

For further information, please contact us (Ref 04770-01)